Reduce, reuse, recycle… up-cycle!

8th December 2011 by

Guest blogger and friend of Otesha Alice Nicol gets us up to speed on the world of up-cycling, and argues that designers and businesses must put reduction of resource use at the heart of their work

In a world where we are continually putting strain on our resources, I have come to question what my role and impact is as a designer. For me, this means taking a holistic view and acknowledging the social and environmental impacts my choice of fabric has on the world. Which fibre did it start off as? Does it have longevity? Where will it end up?

One place to start is by working with what we already have, as using a material that already exists is more sustainable and environmentally friendly than buying new. Our stage of mass consumerism and fast fashion provides a mountain of perfectly usable cast-offs, for example… I am hinting at ‘Up-cycling.’

So what is up-cycling? In a nutshell, up-cycling means using materials with a low value to create a new product with a higher value. Essentially giving something old a new lease of life.

My up-cycling venture began whilst in my final year of printed textiles at the Glasgow School of Art. I wanted to print onto knitwear, yet knitting my own pieces (even from lovely chunky hemp/wool blends) was too timely and buying too costly. What could be used that, in both senses, didn’t cost the earth? My resolution to this conundrum was to venture into a charity shop, where suddenly I found many sizable pieces of knitwear for bargain prices. At the same time buying from charity shops means re-using a product, reducing shipping to external markets and supporting many a just cause through the likes of the Red Cross, Barnardo’s, Oxfam and Shelter, so much more than just bargain knitwear…

A few samples of printing onto re-claimed knit

But the material is only one part of textile design. My design work has been inspired by the bicycle ever since I wandered into the Glasgow Transport Museum and set eyes on the most beautiful penny-farthing I’d ever seen. Whilst I was influenced by the aesthetic design of bicycles (in all shapes and sizes), they also go hand in hand with reducing negative impacts on the environment. Bicycles have negligible carbon emissions, use few materials and resources and make us all that much fitter and healthier! (Though perhaps not all of us will ride a penny-farthing to work!)

Digitally printed silk handkerchiefs

But back to the knitwear… after using jumpers as material for my designs I began to think of other creative ways to use them. This started an enterprise of making hot water bottle covers from the sleeves and cushion covers from the main body. I also became curious about other designers in the world of up-cycling. This led me to discover Goodone, a company which I have been working for this year.

Goodone was established by Nin Castle in 2006 and has appeared at London Fashion Week for the past 6 seasons. Nin has recognized the need to address the environmental impact of the fashion industry and developed a method that is informed by the use of recycled fabrics, but not restrained by it.

The majority of materials are sourced from a textile-recycling unit in East London. Many of the garments are 100% recycled materials, others are mixed with faulty or end of the line fabrics. All garments are made to order in the studio in North London, with a bespoke option, so that only the fabric needed is used.

Despite already using end of the line materials Goodone has even gone a step further, or several leaps, when thinking about its own post production waste. Jerseys/T-shirts are used as cleaning rags, a children’s toy project is on the go and all those jumper sleeves… you guessed it, hot water bottle covers!

Hot water bottle covers made from Aran jumpers

These are inspiring examples of how the role of a designer can help make a more positive impact on our planet: up-cycling; made-to-measure; managing post production waste. Clare Farrell’s article, ‘Peak Fibre?’, on the goodone blog, highlights the necessity of such business models.

Should you wish to discuss your own ideas of up-cycling (or just come for a chat and see what we do!) there are a few events on about town that you can visit:

Full circle: products that are made with recycling in mind

19th October 2011 by

Written by Otesha alumni Andy Hix and cross-posted from The Guardian Sustainable Business blog

Imagine an old pair of shoes that grows into flowers, a carpet that cleans the air and clothing that becomes food for plants.  These are the kinds of products being developed by Dutch designers inspired by the Cradle to Cradle concept.

I have spent a month in Holland interviewing businesses that are creating products that benefit the environment, improve people’s health and are profitable.

Developed by American architect William McDonough and chemist Michael Braungart, Cradle to Cradle envisions an economy based on closed-loop cycles of materials. The concept gained widespread popularity in the Netherlands following a documentary in 2006.

The first meeting I had was with Erica Bol, co-founder of Rewrap, a company that makes Cradle to Cradle laptop covers. The sleeves are made from biodegradable wool from eco-sheep(!) and non-toxic dye with the minimum of materials. They are manufactured in a workplace that helps reintegrate disabled people into the workforce.

The next week I travelled to Venlo, where the city council has decided to make the whole region Cradle to Cradle. Previously young people were leaving Venlo in search of work. Now the city attracts the leading businesses in Cradle to Cradle and has become a hub for sustainable innovation.

Roy Vercoulen, the Managing Director of Venlo’s Cradle to Cradle Exposition Centre, explained that the city’s procurement criteria stimulates innovation by stating intentions – such as a building that produces oxygen, sequesters carbon, purifies water, improves the health of its occupants and promotes local biodiversity – whilst allowing as much room for creativity within that as possible.

If a company meets some of the procurement criteria they score thirty points, if it meets all of the criteria it scores seventy points, and up to a hundred per cent by coming up with solutions the city hadn’t even conceived of. The average score is eighty-three.

I met Richard van Dijk from the Dutch waste company Van Gansewinkel, whose corporate slogan roughly translates as ‘there’s no such thing as waste’. They realised some years ago that most of the materials being brought to them as waste can be turned into other products, which it turns out is very profitable. Now they advise manufacturers on how to design their products to be more easily made into new ones.

Lex Knobben, co-founder of laladoo, a baby clothing company, said he came across Cradle  to Cradle when he was trying to find out if it was possible to buy non-toxic apparel. He told me even clothing made of organic cotton is often soaked in toxins during the dying process.

None of the high street brands he researched could guarantee that their clothing is one hundred per cent toxin free so now he is designing and selling onesies and bibs made from Cradle to Cradle materials.

When I asked Stef Kranendijk, whose carpet company Desso has boomed since adopting the Cradle to Cradle philosophy, what inspired him, he gives the same answer as almost everyone I ask. It was the documentary.

He is brimming with enthusiasm as he recalls watching it and thinking ‘this is fantastic. Fantastic! But I’m going to have to change my whole company!’ Which is exactly what he did. Cradle to Cradle is one of the key drivers of innovation at Desso, who have developed a carpet that helps asthma sufferers by collecting dust from the air and can be easily disassembled and made into new carpet.

The company Oat Shoes have deigned stylish trainers with a packet of seeds in the tongue. The idea is that when they are worn out you can bury them, water them and “watch wild flowers bloom out of your old kicks.”

What’s impressive is how these companies have made the environmental and social outcomes of their businesses a core part of their strategies and a driver of innovation. Instead of aiming to reduce their impact to the environment they are actively seeking to have a positive impact, and are making money in the process.

Cradle to Cradle has made me realise that we need to redesign everything and in order to do that we need a level of collaboration never seen before between chemists, designers, architects, waste companies and manufacturers.

While this is very ambitious, the fact that is can profitable gives me hope that businesses can be persuaded to it.

If you’re interested in finding out more, The Ellen MacArthur Foundation is a good place to start.

World Fair Trade Day

13th May 2011 by

To celebrate World Fair Trade Day on Saturday 14th May, the Fairtrade Foundation (in collaboration with international Fairtrade licensing organisations) have created this short film, A Fair Story. It’s as sweet as a Fairtrade chocolate bar with the production values of the finest Fairtrade coffee.

Tomorrow the Fairtrade are celebrating with Bunting for Justice in Battersea Park, London, 12-2pm.

Gee Whiz, Hi Viz!

28th February 2011 by

After some great events last year, we’re back at Drink, Shop & Do on Wednesday 9th March from 7 to 9 pm. We’re going to be breathing life into some new, but very dull messenger bags, turning them into things of beauty.

There’s reflective material available to help make them perfect for cycling, as well as loads of other fabric and stencils to make fancy shapes and patterns. So please come along and create your very own masterpiece!

Please feel free to bring your own bag if you don’t fancy using one of ours.

When: Wednesday 9th March from 7:00-9:00pm
Where: Drink, Shop & Do, No 9 Caledonian Road N1 9DX (close to King’s Cross station)
Cost: £5.00 including all materials and a bag. For Otesha members, it’s free!

Fancy a mini ethical fashion fest?

25th February 2011 by

Well, you’re in luck!  Our friends at The Papered Parlour are taking over the Museum of Childhood.  Workshops, live music, performance, and craft stalls – including our famous tetra pak wallet making workshop beckons you to join us and celebrate ethical fashion and its growing social movement.

When: Thurs 3rd March from 6:00-9:00pm
Where: Museum of Childhood, Cambridge Heath Road, E2 9PA
Cost: free!

For further programme details, click here.


Fair Wares: Bicycle Tyre Belts you say??

26th October 2010 by

Following last month’s fab Fair Wares craft evening at DrinkShopDo we’re doing it again on Thursday 4th November 7-9pm.

Come along to convert a tyre into a hip belt.  We’ve salvaged lonely bicycle tyres to transform them into the next big fashion item!

When: Thursday 4 November from 7:00-9:00pm
Where: Drink Shop & Do, No 9 Caledonian Road N1 9DX (right near King’s Cross station)
Cost: £15.00 including all materials. For Otesha members, it’s free!

More info

There are lots of drinks, cake, tea pots and the shop is lurvely…

Tremendous tetra-paks into wonderful wallets

1st October 2010 by

Last month our Fair Wares craft evening at DrinkShopDo was such a storming success that we’re doing it again on Thursday 7th October 7-9pm (and in November we’re going to make bike tyre belts).

Come along, bring your friends, make recycled tetra-pak wallets (it’s a good life skill), decorate them so no one knows they’re made out of rubbish, drink nice drinks, eat nice food and chat to nice people (us).

When: Thurs October 7 from 7:00-9:00pm
Where: Drink Shop & Do, No 9 Caledonian Road N1 9DX (right near King’s Cross station)
Cost: £5.00 including all materials
More info: http://www.drinkshopdo.com

Did we mention that it’s only a fiver? And that there are drinks? Also, the shop is lovely.

How to make a tetra pak wallet!

3rd September 2010 by

Last night was piles of fun, hosting Otesha’s first Fair Wears craft night at Drink, Shop & Do. So many people turned up! Jo was expecting to be able to finish knitting her sock, but no! We were rushed off our feet answering questions about juice cartons and it was fab. So, I bet you’re wondering how you turn a juice carton into a beautiful creation, like the one in the picture above? Well..

First you need some good instructors, like us Otesha laydeez (next Fair Wears wallet-making sesh will probs be Thursday October 7th).

Then, you need some clean tetra paks, with the top and bottom cut off. Fold in along the sides.

Then fold into three sections, like super speedy Laura here, get out the scissors and do some snipping to get it into shape. Good visual instructions can be found here (although instead of using staples, we just leave an extra flap that we can tuck in to hold the wallet together).

You can leave it there and look pretty cool and parade your beverage of choice when you whip out your wallet, or you can take it a step further and cover it with fabric and add a fastener. I got out the needle and thread and covered mine with a flowery scrap of fabric, added a retro button and some red string to fasten it all together.

Voila! It used to be a cranberry juice carton. How it has gone up in the world.

This was cross-posted from hannamade

Revolutionary Resolutions

1st February 2010 by

According to some clever bloke on the Internet people have been making new years resolutions since 153BC. This month we challenge you to carry on the tradition and commit yourself to a green resolution.

We’ve resolved to:

  • Go to more swishing parties (that’s clothes swapping to us lay men)
  • Stop buying new clothes
  • Mend old clothes
  • Reuse water bottles and stop buying mineral water
  • Take showers inside of baths
  • Vegan it up two meals a day
  • Write more letters (to friends and MPs)
  • Protest more
  • Brave the weather and the traffic and cycle to work everyday.

And remember, if you break yours you can always start again on the Chinese or Iranian new years.

Martha sent us this resolution:

Mine is to grow my own sweet potatoes, as it is apparently quite easy and I never see any for sale from anywhere closer than Spain.

For anyone who wants to try this first buy a couple of sweet potatoes now since you need to start them nowish. Put them in an airing cupboard or somewhere else nice and warm. Leave them till about April by which time they should have produced some lovely shoots. Take these shoots off and plant them in a nice peat free seed compost, and keep them somewhere fairly warm, definitely frost free in sunlight and don’t forget to water them.

In June either plant them in a reasonable bit of soil or, as I will, in a big tub- old plastic dustbin I used last year for strawberries in my case. Peat free compost and regular feeding with some seaweed product should work fine. If you can add some home made compost all the better. Make sure the tub is well drained. Leave to grow, making sure they are weed free- if you plant them in the ground it’s good to plant them through something, maybe old carpet.

I think they are ready in August-September. When you dig them up be sure to dig deep as they grow downwards or you’ll miss a load of them, one of my reasons for planting in a big tub; I should make sure to get them all.

Customise your clothes

3rd April 2009 by

We’ve been known to turn our old clothes and random objects into aprons, belts, reflective skirts and other useful things. We’re also fans of repairing and restoring old clothes. Your challenge, if you’re game, is to make one old item new again.

This month we invite you to get beyond patching denim and turn your jeans into shorts, then your shorts into slippers, use your old slippers to patch a worn jumper, turn your old jumper into new gloves and socks, your socks into toys, after all this you’ll be thirsty so you’ll want to trade your toys for a drink in a can (which you can make into a book) or a carton (which’ll be your next wallet).

If you’ve got any handmade goods or hideous hand-me-downs that you’ve given a new lease of life to, send us a photo – email us at info@otesha.org.uk and we’ll post it here.

Helen sent us these recycled babies:

“This one is made out of a pair of old jeans- useful cos there’s
pockets everywhere!  I even managed to convert the fly into a handy mobile
phone size pocket :P ”

“My bag out of an old box and some parcel tape was quick to make, and
lasted 2 years of UK weather before i needed to make another one!”

“The last one is made out of lorry inner tubes, and fastens with a valve.”

Check out www.thisway-up.co.uk for more of the above.

Rosie came in and modelled her customised t-shirt:

Here’s Hanna modeling an apron made out of old shirts and Reisen wrappers:


Georgie showing off her custom-made reflective cycling top-turned-skirt:

And Jo modelling her prized tyre belt:


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