Monthly Challenge: Edible heirlooms

27th January 2012 by

Allotmenters’ ‘hungry season’ is almost at an end, and it’s that exciting time of year when it’s time to browse through seed catalogues, plan your home-grown-dinner calendar and get potting.

This month’s challenge is to combine this pleasure with doing some good for that magic thing that makes the world go round – no, not money… genetic diversity.

It’s as important to preserve plant diversity as it is that of animals like polar bears and tree frogs. The less we rely on a small number of varieties, the lower the risks to our food supply (and the better for our health). Greater plant variety also raises the chances of viable foodstuffs adapting well to climate change as we feel our way through an unpredictable 21st Century. So here is something you can do on your own windowsill or back garden that will make a real, positive difference.

So we’re asking you to be sure to order some heirloom or heritage seeds this year among your usual crop wishlist. These are old varieties that are not commonly grown these days. Not only can you help rescue these varieties for the future, you can have fun by impressing your friends with purple carrots and other surprising blasts from the past!

And we’d love you to get in touch to tell us what veggie treasures you’ve unearthed.

And once you’ve got your first batches of seeds bought (or swapped), you can start to learn the vital skill of seed-saving, meaning future generations will have you to thank for their nutritious meal.

In a pickle

11th November 2011 by

Now that the franticness of the growing season is over, it’s time to sit back and admire the winter store cupboard. This year I have been a preserving powerhouse. It’s taken perseverance and there have been painful moments, like when the marmalade didn’t set or the cordial exploded.

It all began with a bout of blight in an allotment full of tomatoes – suddenly I found myself with kilos and kilos of green tomatoes. I don’t tend to anthropomorphise vegetables, but at times I really felt that all those tomatoes were laughing at me.

But now I’ve got cordial, marmalade, jam and chutney to see me through the winter and cover up for many inevitable forgotten birthday presents.

This is what I’ve made:

- Green Tomato Marmalade

- Green Tomato Chutney (an amalgamation of lots of different recipes)

- Hawthorn Ketchup

- Grape and lemon jam (an attempt to fix and set some fermenting cordial, hence the weird combination, I’m not sure if sour jam is going to take off)

- Pickled Gherkins

- Pickled Turnips

- Grape Cordial (learn from my mistakes and don’t skimp on the citric acid, or it will ferment and explode in your face, or all over your kitchen)

- Elderflower Cordial (I wasn’t organised enough to catch the elderberries)

- Hawthorn Cordial

- Sloe Cordial

- Rosehip Syrup

Next up: chilli oil in a range of strengths, one for every occasion; there’s some wine still in progress, which I have merely been an observer to but can’t wait to try; and two marrows, one of which, controversially, is destined for rum.

Feel free to share below the pickling and preserving recipes that will see you through the winter.

Balkan beats: adventures in slow travel

26th October 2011 by

Last month, I packed my bags and temporarily ran away from home. This post is a collection of a few favourite moments on the road. It’s also an ode to two-wheeled travel, local food and the art of hospitality.

Better than a free lunch

In Slovenia, we took a wrong turn out of Ljubljana and suddenly went off our map. Completely lost, we knocked on the door of a house that looked friendly enough. And before we knew it, we were sitting in the kitchen of our new friends, Darja and Frank, drinking coffee, practising our broken Slovenian, looking over maps and talking about their upcoming plans for a trip to Tibet. It turned out that we were on the wrong side of a pretty sizeable hill, so after feeding us lunch, Frank loaded our two-wheeled steeds into his horse trailer and drove us over the mountain, plonking us down in Grosuplje, where we were supposed to be, and pointing us in the right direction.

The next day, we were befriended by a retired couple, Nadja and Marjan, while resting at the side of the road a few kilometers away from the Croatian boarder. They wouldn’t hear of letting us carry on without feeding us some homemade cherry wine and coffee. This, of course, turned into a four hour lunch where we gorged ourselves on fresh walnuts, salad, stuffed peppers and potatoes, all from their garden, and drank delicious local wine. (And then had to cycle up a giant mountain in the fierce afternoon heat- ugh.)

The amazing hospitality of the people we met along the way will stay with me for a long time, as will the amazing food. Time and time again, we found ourselves in front of heaped plates of figs, cheese, vegetables and walnuts, being encouraged to eat as much as we could. As far as I’m concerned, the Balkans are filled with doting grandmothers who feed you till you burst and fun-loving uncles who break out the rakjia (a local kind of schnapps) at every possible occasion, including breakfast. More than once, I had to secretly tip my 8am shot glass into the bushes! Whenever we enthusiastically used our favourite Slovenian-Croatian-Bosnian-Montenegran word, “dobro” (which means “good”), our hosts would invariably point at a tree or plant or cow and explain that the food came from their own land.

In Croatia, we cycled through the interior of the country for three days before hitting the coast. Far away from the tourist path, we passed through amazing desert mountain landscapes and pedalled through tiny villages where tiny old women shelling corn on their front porches would wave and smile, and groups of men sitting in front of cafes would yell hello and good luck, and ask where we were heading (at least we think that’s what they were asking….our Croatian was broken at best). For me, the best moments of the trip were those little interactions – the small moments that reminded me why I love bicycle travel so much. Cars and trains put barriers between you and the places you move through, but on a bike you can talk with everyone as you pedal by.

Our second night in Croatia, we were heading towards the amazingly beautiful (but very overcrowded) Plitvicka lakes. As the clock edged towards 6:30 and the shadows got longer, we started our daily search for somewhere to stay. We’d been advised not to wild camp because of land mines left over from the war in the 90s, so we started looking for signs for sobas, rooms that people rent in their houses. We stopped in a town that was mostly deserted, with trees growing up through abandoned houses and buildings with obvious bullet holes, the first time we’d seen real evidence of the war. We saw a sign for an organic farm and stopped to chat with the farmer. After buying his amazing secret superberry juice and sampling some delicious lavender cookies, we got to talking. It turns out he was a counter-terrorism pilot during the war. He thought that war was madness, but as he put it “when people come at you with guns, you either leave or you fight. I couldn’t leave, so I fought”.

Over the next month, as we travelled down into Bosnia, Montenegro, Albania and finally to Greece, we heard so many different stories of war. I came away convinced that there are as many perspectives as there are people living in the Balkans. This is certainly a complex part of the world, with many surprises and contradictions. One thing is sure – for people who value hospitality so deeply, it must have been excruciating to shut themselves off from so many of their neighbours, schoolmates and bordering countries for all those years during the war.

Their challenges now are different – whether to join the EU, how to fend off cheap agricultural imports, how to keep young people from leaving the country in search of jobs. Like many of us in the UK, the young people we met were uncertain about their future. Our last few days in Greece really brought this message home, with people telling us about 50% salary cuts and mass emigration to other EU countries.

As I packed up my bike and boarded the boat back to London, the thought stuck with me that we’re at an economic turning point and we really are all in this together. And then I came back to find occupied stock exchanges in cities all over the world, but that’s another story for another blog….

From St Paul's to St Hilda's, food sovereignty in action

25th October 2011 by

What is it that links an international gathering of peasant activists at the House of Commons, the tent city of the ‘Occupy the London Stock Exchange’ protest at St Paul’s Cathedral and a modest, local community food co-op event in Tower Hamlets, east London?

At first glance it’s hard to see a common theme. But I was lucky enough to attend all three in the last two weeks, and I can’t shake the thought that there were common threads linking these unusual and sometimes wonderful assemblies.

The parliamentary gathering was held by War on Want to mark Food Sovereignty Day. I wrote about the concept of food sovereignty in my first Otesha blog post: as a movement it aims to return control over and access to land, seeds, water and other inputs to smallholder farmers and away from corporations, so benefiting peasants, the environment, consumers’ health and sense of connection to their food, and local cultures.

Deeply impressive leaders and farmers from peasants’ and landless people’s movements, from Mozambique, Brazil, Cuba and Sri Lanka, spoke powerfully about their efforts to rescue their livelihoods, dignity and prosperity from the grasp of profit-focused agribusiness. But while these struggles, and the concept of food sovereignty, are often seen as issues of the global South, many at the meeting made the case, too, for a food sovereignty movement in countries like the UK.

And so Reclaim the Fields, an offshoot of the peasants’ organisation La Via Campesina, has plans not only to make connections with Young Farmers organisations in this country in a bid to engage with them about access to land and the future of food-growing, but also, more radically, to stage land occupations next year, echoing the invasions of unused, privately owned land by Brazilian peasants thrown off their own land to make way for corporate plantations.

So what on earth has this debate got to do with the Occupy LSX encampment? It’s not a link I crowbarred into being by myself. In the meeting in Parliament one speaker made the point:

“The Occupy movement and food sovereignty are both all about revolting against a particular kind of capitalism.”

Luis Muchanga, a peasants’ leader from Mozambique, made a similar point:

“The neoliberal model deciding how we produce our food has failed.”


Graciela Romero of War on Want:

“Food sovereignty is about economics, politics, democratic control.”


John Hilary, director of War on Want:

“We need a change to the system. It’s political. It’s about where the money goes and where the political classes put their money. And why the organic and natural movements are marginalised. The globalised food system revolves around increasing trade in agricultural products, and so food is reduced to a commodity, like a car. A commodity whose production is controlled by the major corporations who have benefited so much from this system. … Food sovereignty puts trade back in its proper place: people’s needs before capital’s needs and profit’s needs.”

With this ringing in my ears, I was excited by the connections being made between the food sovereignty and Occupy movements. But would the Occupy protesters in turn see any importance to their own agenda of the issue of control over food and land?

I decided after I left the Palace of Westminster to cycle up to St Paul’s and see for myself what was happening there. And I was impressed to see the links to food and land also being made explicitly in the shadow of St Paul’s.

'In the UK, 1% of the population owns 70% of the land. We, the 99%, own less than half the land owned by the 1%.'

This flyposted image made the point directly: here, in the UK, there is staggering inequality in land ownership and therefore in access to land (the basis of all life and all prosperity).

This feels like a time for sometimes surprising connections and alliances to be made. People from top to bottom have had their faith in our current systems shaken, and this makes fertile ground for new ideas and creative challenges to a system that appears to have lost much of its legitimacy.

But where is the relevance of the Tower Hamlets community food co-op I visited the week before last? Well, a food sovereignty movement for the UK would not only look like confrontation, land occupations or high-level policy debates. It would have to be rooted in every community, at the truly grassroots level, and be expressed through a whole constellation of community-level initiatives. It has been dawning on me that the Tower Hamlets event at St Hilda’s East Community Centre was a brilliant example of this.

A weekly food co-op was showcasing its work enabling local people to buy fresh, affordable vegetables without having to visit the supermarkets, a boost to their health but also to the community, bringing people together who might not otherwise talk to their near neighbours.

The Women’s Environmental Network had a stall, and were proudly showing off their new seed library, from which local people will be able to take and contribute fruit and vegetable seeds, again putting control of food directly into ordinary people’s hands.

A wall display encouraged people to use post-it notes to mark their community food initiatives on a map of the borough. In this inner-city area, the map was filled up.

Here, at St Hilda’s, in its modest way, without protests or occupations, but with an equally powerful message, was food sovereignty in action.

Food, glorious food sovereignty

6th October 2011 by

My cycle ride to work takes me through Greenwich Park, and at this time of year, even just after dawn, you can hardly move for (mostly older) people scanning the ground intently and filling bulging bags of sweet chestnuts.

Extremely local food: Greenwich Park chestnuts

I’m a sucker for foraging, too, and have to resist the urge to leap off my bike and join in, because if I started I’d lose track of time and never make it in to the Otesha office that day. But to me these foragers make a beautiful sight, and I’ve been pondering why.

It’s not just the setting of Greenwich Park, with its ancient trees, autumn colour and long shadows, though of course that helps. It’s something beautiful that foraging shares with ‘growing your own’ and with truly locally produced and sold food: knowing your food from field (or tree, or hedgerow) to plate, having control and influence over how what you eat is grown or gathered, transported, prepared and cooked.

That idea of local control over food production is at the heart of the ‘food sovereignty’ movement, which is taking an important place in the debate about how food, social justice and the environment are interconnected.

The concept arose out of the landless peasants’ movements of South America, particularly La Via Campesina, and focuses on the need to return control over and access to land, seeds, water and finance to local, independent producers. That’s a big challenge in the face of a food system dominated and controlled by agribusiness and mega-retailers, but many see it as crucial to building a truly sustainable food system.

A few of us from Otesha went to a fantastic night of films and talks on food sovereignty recently, organised by 6 Billion Ways – you can still watch the films online here.

Much of the debate about food sovereignty focuses on so-called ‘developing world’, and deals with poorer countries’ struggle against unfair trade rules imposed by the rich countries. But could the concept take off here, too?

Is there a need for a UK food sovereignty movement?

Why not? Agribusiness and the supermarkets dominate here just as they do elsewhere. Small farmers are going bust and being swallowed up into corporate-owned megafarms at alarming rates. Young people who want to make a go of working the land find it is priced way out of their reach. A new survey says 9 out of 10 Europeans see buying local as a good thing, but half say it’s too hard to figure out what’s local and what is not.

So why is ‘food sovereignty’ not on the agenda in a big way here? Well, perhaps it will be before long. Later this month we’ll be at the Houses of Parliament (they do let tree-huggers like us in sometimes) for ‘Food Sovereignty Day’, hearing how to “build the food sovereignty movement in the UK” and learning about what is already going on in this country to “challenge the dominant, corporate agribusiness model”.

Will anything come of it? I hope so. How we produce, distribute and eat food, and who controls those actions, is crucial to our environment, health and the bottom line, so the food sovereignty movement is looking like a really important development in the wider debate about sustainability and justice.

Drunken Damsons

31st August 2011 by

My garden is home to just a few fruit trees.  One makes apples of a slightly-less-than-delicious variety (still great for Apfelmus though!).  There’s a mini Golden Russet tree, which makes much more delicious apples, just never quite enough of them!  A pear tree hangs over from a neighbour’s garden, and there’s the occasional windfall from an apple tree slightly further afield.  This apple tree I watch longingly, as each year hundreds of apples fall to their fate: slug food! I’ve many times considered the climb over a couple of fences and onto a shed.  There must be many more back gardens across the UK harbouring unloved fruit.  At a time of year when most shops have apples flown in from New Zealand, this is something we should be challenging.

The final fruit tree in our garden is a Damson tree.  Damsons are delicious, but there are just so many of them!  And although delicious, I don’t find them the most satisfying fruit.  They are pretty small, which makes them very time-consuming to chop and turn into delicious crumble, pie, jam, or anything else that could use large quantities at once.  Time is passing though, and I don’t want these damsons to meet a similar fate as the neighbour’s apples, so this weekend I went in search of something to do with them.  The result: damson gin!  I found this recipe for wild damson gin which lured me in with talk of an ‘irresistible liqueur’. You do have to acquire some gin, but the only other ingredients are sugar and damsons.   Aaah, simplicity.  Oh wait, I forgot, one final, most crucial ingredient: patience.  I’m not allowed to touch it for at least three months.  Already it’s a beautiful deep red colour, I keep thinking to myself  ‘Surely, surely it’ll taste divine already with a colour like that!’.  But I’m holding out, the sugar has almost all dissolved, and then I will hide it away in a dark place (from the light, and myself!).

There are still a mighty fine number of damsons on that tree though, anyone got any ideas?

Sally forth with seasonal feasts

1st August 2011 by

This month, whilst the freshest, crunchiest, fruitiest, deliciousest, localest produce is in abundance, we challenge you to hold a seasonal feast.

Find a friend with an allotment or a neighbour growing in their garden and beg some excess off them (we can almost guarantee that they’ll have more courgettes than they know what to do with). Visit the market and buy up as much British produce as you can carry home. Scramble in the brambles for some blackberries. Take all your bundles home and invite your people over for a feast of plenty.

- Seasonal recipes here

- Find out what’s in season here

- Why we forgot how to grow food

We are heading towards The End of Days, and you’d better get yourself an allotment
an unexpected piece of wisdom from that great environmentalist Jeremy Clarkson.

Wild about foraging

1st August 2011 by

Courtesy of James, the intern that wouldn’t leave, we proudly present to you

The Otesha Project – Wild Summer Food Recipe Book (download here)

The book includes tips for safe and sustainable foraging and recipes from the Invisible Food Project.

We hope the recipe book will inspire you to get out there and forage. Foraging can be an amazing source of local, healthy, sustainable food for free. We also think that getting people outside, getting connected to their local green spaces and observing the nature around them no matter how urban they are, can only be a good thing.

If you like this you’ll love Otesha’s Wild Food Cycles, where we take an intrepid band of individuals on a cycle around London’s parks and impart our wild food knowledge at stops along the way, the ride ends with everyone getting together and enjoying a freshly foraged meal.

Otesha members get free entry to our events.

Thanks to the Invisible Food Project for help and inspiration in wild food ways.

Fantastic fables and foraged feasts

26th May 2011 by

This year we’re taking part in the Two Degrees festival by Artsadmin.

“Sitting between art and activism, performance and protest, this year’s festival is a chance to be part of artist led actions; tell your own revolutionary story, help eradicate an invasive species, go on a mass bingo bike ride, ask an expert about the future or exchange your own personal and political views for a free haircut.”

The festival kicks off on Sunday 12th June with Cycle Sunday at the Arcola Theatre in Hackney. We’ll be there leading a Wild Food Cycle from Dalston to the Lea Valley. The Wild Food Cycle is inspired by the work of the Invisible Food Project, which brings people together in their local green spaces to hunt for wild food, which they then cook and eat together. We too will be exploring urban green spaces, foraging and sharing food.

We’ve roped in Adam Weymouth, a walker, writer and storyteller to accompany us on this walk. Adam recently spent 8 months walking to Istanbul and is interested in slow travel, the hospitality of strangers, plant folklore and being nourished (literally) by a journey. Hopefully he’s going to tell us a story or two.

There may (or may not) also be drawing, sunny weather and the discovery of amazing things. There will definitely be walking, talking and eating.

If you want to join the Wild Food Cycle but you don’t, can’t or won’t cycle, contact jo@otesha.org.uk to arrange meeting us for the forage, which will all be done on foot. Otherwise meet us, astride your bike, at the Arcola Theatre at 3.30pm.

There will be a trailer load of other bike-themed events on the 12th, from pedal powered freegan smoothies, to bike customising and maintenance.

P.s. This event is free.

World Fair Trade Day

13th May 2011 by

To celebrate World Fair Trade Day on Saturday 14th May, the Fairtrade Foundation (in collaboration with international Fairtrade licensing organisations) have created this short film, A Fair Story. It’s as sweet as a Fairtrade chocolate bar with the production values of the finest Fairtrade coffee.

Tomorrow the Fairtrade are celebrating with Bunting for Justice in Battersea Park, London, 12-2pm.


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